🔗 Share this article

When compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the family utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their small shop achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.